Tag Archives: south kensington

Eat the Olympics – Madsen, South Kensington

8 Mar

Reviewed on 7th March for my other project Eat the Olympics.

We seem to be heading to South Kensington a lot recently. Is this slowly becoming one of London’s hottest foodie destinations? Last night was the turn of traditional Scandinavian restaurant Madsen and we were visiting to tick the Swedish entry off our list.

As we entered the narrow dining room, we were seated at our table by our very polite host for the evening next to a book case full of Scandinavian books, leaflets and magazines. After a quick browse, we were provided the menu and left to peruse for a few minutes. We all chose the gravlax to start, two of us opted for the Swedish “Tjälknöl” (£16.95) and one the slow roasted pork belly (£15.95) for main and we all had separate puddings – the Swedish Kladdkaka (£5.95), rhubarb trifle (£6.95) and Kransekage (£3.95).

Shortly after we had ordered the room began to fill with the evenings diners. We overheard the Scandinavian waitress speaking in her native tongue to one of the diners before quickly switching to English for the table next door.

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The starters arrived and the plate was beautifully decorated with deep red beetroot and fennel marinated salmon, an orange dressing and fennel salad, which was served with an accompanying Jarlsberg quiche. We thought the quiche, however delicious it tasted (which it did), was slightly out of place and was not really needed. The fennel salad was crisp and topped with a welcome acidic marinated red onion, which matched the tender salmon perfectly.

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As soon as the Swedish “Tjälknöl” arrived at the table, we knew that the beef was undercooked. The topside of beef had been sliced into three pieces and only small parts around the edge were pink, the rest a dull brown colour. The first bite was disappointing; the meat was dry and not accompanied by enough of the rich beer sauce that we were so looking forward to. The seasonal vegetables were tender and well cooked and the side of new potatoes that we ordered soft and buttery. Despite the dryness of the beef, we polished everything off and eagerly awaited the arrival of our desserts.

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The Kransekage was a small and well formed cold chocolate cake topped with orange ganache and a quenelle of lingonberry ice cream with a smear of lingonberry sauce on the side. The chocolate cake was rich and gooey, the lingonberry ice cream fruity and delicious. There was no hint of orange ganache but the dessert was enjoyed nonetheless. The star of the show however was the rhubarb trifle, which instead of whipped cream arrived with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top (as requested). The amaretto crumble was crisp, the rhubarb soft and sweet. We all agreed that this was the best dish of the evening.

When our dessert plates were cleared from the table, we were shocked to see the time. We had enjoyed three hours at Madsen, a restaurant that we would describe as a cute little Scandinavian neighbourhood restaurant. We look forward to returning, next time to sample to meatballs.

Thank you to Madsen for providing complimentary food for two.

Madsen
20 Old Brompton Road
LONDON
SW7 3DL
020 7225 2772

Madsen on Urbanspoon

Jacqueline Harvey at The Pelham

7 Mar

Published on BespokeRSVP on Wednesday 7th March 2012

On an unseasonably warm and sunny February afternoon in London, I walked out of South Kensington station and smiled as I saw large numbers of happy people sitting outside basking in the sunshine whilst sipping on coffees and nibbling on cakes. I wanted to join in but I was on my way to something much better. I crossed the road and entered The Pelham, a delightful boutique hotel, which spans three conjoining Georgian townhouses.

Upon entry I was shown to the drawing room. Warm, cosy and littered with luxurious furniture, artworks, dark oak panelled walls and an honesty bar, the room was a complete contrast to the sunny weather outside and I could see myself sitting by the coal fire on a cold winters evening with a good book and a glass of red.

But I was not there to lounge around; I was there for an hour with Jacqueline Harvey. Guests of the hotel are able to enjoy one of four hourly sessions with Jacqueline – a lifestyle consultation, a personal fitness training session, nutritional evaluation or centering meditation. I chose the nutrition session, which was followed by The Pelham’s version of a healthy Afternoon Tea, partly because I have had one too many personal training sessions that have left me depressed that I cannot afford more and partly because I have a bad diet. Or so I thought.

Any nerves that were present before I sat down with Jacqueline, and believe me there were a few, were quickly dispelled as I caught a glimpse of her huge smile and warm nature. Slender with flawless skin, I could immediately tell that Jacqueline practices what she preaches. I got subtle hints of her healthy lifestyle a few times during my hour session. She tries not to eat too much wheat “but I ate a lot of bread yesterday and my stomach didn’t feel good for it”, which reassured me that I do not have to cut things out of my diet but simply save the things that worry me as a treat.

We started off by running through a few questions – name, height, weight and blood type, which I didn’t know, then a series of questions about my health. As I answered no to most, I started to believe that I was healthier than I had thought before. I also felt a bit smug when I answered the exercise question. Had Jacqueline have asked this question three months ago, the answer would have been completely different, almost non-existent.

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“Well, you’re actually quite healthy”, beamed Jacqueline from the large pink floral armchair. My reaction was that of surprise, followed by utter happiness. For years I had thought that my diet was poor. Perhaps that is because I focus on the negatives. I am guilty of eating something sweet every single day, whether that is a bar of chocolate, a slab of cake or a cookie. I can’t seem to go a day without naughty treats and in this day and age, you’re sometimes made to feel guilty about it.

All was going so well, until I was asked to recall my actions in the 24 hours leading up to our meeting. Oh dear. My first reaction was to lie, she would be horrified, or better still, I would be horrified to tell an extremely healthy woman sat opposite me that I had gorged on pizza and numerous alcoholic drinks as I celebrated a friends 30th birthday. I hadn’t taken it overboard because I knew I had the session but still, I had to confess to something that really does not occur very often. As I spoke, there was absolutely no sign that Jacqueline was judging me. You see this lady knows that we all have our vices, not many of us are perfect and from time to time we have a blow out. Mine just happened to be the day before our meeting. The fact that she told me I looked well made the slight hangover feeling just that little bit better.

We continued to chat about what I usually have for breakfast, lunch and dinner and for some reason, Jacqueline came to the conclusion that I do not snack, which I had to quickly correct her on. Snacking is my problem. I’ll have breakfast, manage until lunch with nothing in between but as soon as the last forkful of food hits my mouth at lunchtime, I’m already thinking of the next thing to eat and that’s usually something sweet. But instead of making me feel even guiltier than I already do, Jacqueline provided me with a few alternative ideas, including dates, fruit, fruity oatcakes and pre prepared raw bars. A couple of pieces of chocolate wouldn’t be the end of the world and she even finds that a solitary slice of cheese on an oatcake at the end of the meal sometimes takes away the need for something sweet.

After what felt like twenty minutes, the hour was up, which was signalled by a knock on the door from the very polite deputy manager and a waiter who was carrying a large tray. On the tray sat a cake stand full of freshly baked treats, along with a plate of open sandwiches and a non alcoholic mojito. I ordered a white tea to accompany my lunch, which was delivered promptly, my first cup poured delicately by the waiter.

The selection of open sandwiches included poached salmon on black rye bread, free range egg with mustard cress on granary loaf, grilled turkey breast and guacamole on spelt bread and breadless hummus on cucumber. The sweet treats included ginseng yoghurt jelly with bee pollen, matcha and mandarin delice, dairy free and gluten-free carrot cake, camomile and lime shortbread and organic honey comb served with fresh fruit. I had my first taste of real honeycomb, which was one of the sweetest things I have ever tasted. It was delicious but I couldn’t even finish the morsel that was on the plate. The ginseng yoghurt was unlike anything I have tasted before – a mouse like yoghurt sat on top of a layer of honey and was topped with crunchy bee pollen. My favourite was the gluten free carrot cake, which was dense and topped with a delightfully sweet dairy free butter cream.

We sat nibbling at the delicacies on offer while talking about our favourite London restaurants for a further half an hour before it was time to leave. In little over an hour, Jacqueline inspired me, not least because she had not criticised any part of my diet, rather suggested some fantastic alternatives that could help me in my quest to being healthy. We left the room and I was treated to a tour of the hotel rooms before departing. My experience did not include an overnight stay but had I have stayed, I would have enjoyed a beautifully decorated room and perhaps an unbeatable view of South Kensington and a huge king sized bed. As I left the building, Jacqueline took my hand in hers, gave me a hug and two kisses and wished me a good day. Her infectious smile rubbed off on me and I left beaming and planning my healthy meals for the week ahead.

The Pelham
15 Cromwell Place
South Kensington
London
SW7 2LA

Andalucian tapas and sherry at Casa Brindisa

3 Sep

Brindisa is one of those places in London that i’ve heard so much about but despite all of the glowing reviews and compliments, I have never made it – until last night that is.

I embarked on my journey to South Kensington last night with high hopes – I was about to attend a Sherry and Andalucian tapas tasting evening at Casa Brindisa.

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One of my favourite cuisines is Spanish, probably due to the amount of time I spent in Spain when I was a child. Maybe not an awful lot in comparison to the more well seasoned traveller but nonetheless it gave my pallet and taste buds a firm grounding.

So the point of the evening: to introduce a range of press and bloggers to the new supper clubs held at the venue plus the Andalucian menu that will run through the month of September.

The venue itself, sweet and atmospheric with a bar area, tapas area, ham carving counter and a room at the bottom, which lets you look into the kitchen.

Peter McCombie, Master of Wine was on hand to teach us the difference between 10 sherry’s and how each and every one of them complemented the food that was served to us throughout the evening. Unfortunately I’m not overly fond of sherry, although I did try each one that was served to me. Some were potent, others sweet. I made a note of my favourite of the evening – Oloroso Abocado Alameda. Peter caught my attention, especially when he said ‘when you taste the sherry, tell me whatever you taste because you won’t be wrong. I might argue with you but you won’t be wrong.’ I didn’t hear any arguments throughout the evening.

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My favourite facts that I learned:

• There is no umami present in Sherry. Heston Blumenthal tested this out. There is however something called AKP, meaning that it enhances the taste of foods. e.g. It makes crab taste crabbier
• There is an argument that if you can afford not to filter the wine, it will leave more to the taste
• There is also an argument that sherry can be aged once opened. Some say it ruins it if it is kept for too long as once it is open it will change. You can easily keep a good bottle of sherry open for a week or two but a lot of people think that ageing should take place in the barrel rather than the bottle
• The ‘Napoleon’ in ‘Amontillado Seco ‘Sacromonte’, Validivia is the French word. Apparently in English, this used to be called ‘Wellington’ but Peter is not sure that this still exists

I enjoyed seeing everyone getting fired up, especially Monika, founder of Brindisa who I saw taking in the smells.

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During the tasting, we found out that she has a real passion for capers as she willed us all to try the hand picked capers that had been laid out for us on the table along with fine olives. There are a few foods that don’t satisfy my taste buds and two of those things are, unfortunately, capers and olives. Nonetheless, not wanting to seem rude, partly due to Monkia’s genuine passion, I popped one in my mouth and chewed. I was pleasantly surprised – not enough to say I would eat them all of the time but they were indeed less salty than cultivated capers. They are around three times the price of the capers that you would find in a supermarket and are only in season from June until September.

Now on to the food. Last night was full of surprises – firstly, I didn’t turn my nose up at a single one of the sherry’s that was served to me. It is no secret that I am not a big drinker, nor do I know much about alcohol. The only drinks I’ll ever have are white wine (Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough please), Vodka with fresh Lime and Soda Water and Pear Cider. Recently I tried a Tanqueray cocktail at Vintage at Goodwood and it was rather tasty but apart from that, I stay well away from other spirits.

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Secondly – the Remojon (orange and cod carpaccio salad, with artichoke) turned out to be my favourite savoury dish. The flavour combination was something that I have never experienced before. The saltiness of the cod, mixed with the texture of fresh artichoke, sweetness from the orange and the crunch from the red onion, pure heaven!

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Thirdly – you can make exceptional fritters without eggs! The Tortillita de gamba (prawn tortilla) was the perfect example of this. The chef came over to our table to give us a bit of an education. The only ingredients used in this were prawns, red onion, garlic, flour. They are then fried in no doubt lots of oil.

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Each dish that we were served had something special about it and I was left wanting more each time, especially when it came around to the pudding. A Tocinillo de cielo (heavenly flan dish) was placed in front of me and my first thought was that it looked like a beautiful crème caramel that my mum used to make when I was younger. I didn’t fully appreciate the almost sour taste of the sauce back in those days when all I used to eat were flying saucers and red fizzy laces (I’m not joking and I still eat them now) but one mouthful of the flan last night and I was astonished – i’m not a kid anymore! I finished it too quickly, as did the two girls sat beside me. We all ‘mmmmm’d’ and repeated more than once that what we had just eaten was bloomin’ delicious. There was a spare plate sat in the middle of our table, which we graciously finished – we couldn’t let it go to waste could we?!

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When leaving, I was thanked by Monika for coming along and I told her I’d be back, if not for the Spanish Flan alone! I’ll definitely keep my word and next time try the Soho branch, Tierra Brindisa.

From the website:

For the last twenty years, Brindisa, an adventurous food importer, has sourced some of the finest foods from Spain. These are available to professional buyers across the country and also at the Brindisa shop at Borough market. With the opening of Tapas Brindisa in 2004, Monika Linton, who founded Brindisa in 1988, realised a long awaited dream: that of working with the creative flair of our team of chefs, to create our own place to serve Brindisa ingredients. Casa Brindisa enjoys the same heritage of fine producers behind its foods and a modern outlook on tapas cooking from the kitchen.

Find out more about the classes here.

Casa Brindisa
7-9 Exhibition Road
London
SW7 2HE
Tel 020 7590 0008

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